I drove down, parked and walked into town with my PDA. I must have missed the point where Freespot was strongest last time as I ended up opposite the Internet Cafe (secured, not too surprisingly) and outside a bar that was supposed to have WIFI. I didn't connect to Freespot (must buy some chalk and make some marks on the fences next time ;) ) but I managed to connect to another access point and do my mail. I still couldn't manage to get outgoing mail to work :( I'm not entiredly sure what's wrong... I'll spend more time investigating tomorrow when we will hike down with the laptop and spend some time in the bar.